A documentation of the Yorkshire 3 Peaks
A throwback to the most beautifully surreal day of my life.
In November 2023, I ran between the three highest peaks of Yorkshire - Pen-y-Ghent, Whernside, and Ingleborough. It was an incredibly challenging experience, and now, six months later, it's difficult to recollect all the details of the run. However, I am proud of my accomplishment and want to document the journey before my memory fades and I'm left with only the fact that I completed the run.
The Yorkshire Three Peaks challenge covers nearly a marathon distance with 1,600m elevation gain. Prior to this, the longest distance I had ever run was a mere 15k with a friend. I was not prepared for the immense physical and mental demands this run would place upon me!
The day before the run was filled with a 5-hour drive alongside three strangers who would soon become friends. We made our way down to Horton in Ribblesdale, where the cold of the North seeped deep into our bones. As I stepped out of the warm comfort of the car, the sting of sub-zero temperatures sent shivers through my body. The hall where we spent the night was cold, cramped, and uncomfortable. As someone with pretty poor circulation, I struggled to get a good night's sleep, waking up several times throughout the night. I think it was so bad, my watch did not even register me sleeping!
So there I was, on the morning of, a zombie, putting on my backpack and filling up my water bladder. I slipped on my once-shiny trail runners and stored an assortment of food in the side pockets. I opted for those fancy Clif protein bars that feel like they take forever to chew, along with some homemade flapjacks. The members of our group who were walking the challenge set off at 7:30, while we (the runners) stayed behind, mentally preparing ourselves (mostly by laughing at the craziness of what we were about to do). Finally, we headed out into the glorious clear skies, ready to take on the challenge. I must say, the Yorkshire Dales looked absolutely stunning!
Pen-y-Ghent
The first ascent was Pen-y-Ghent. I was feeling pretty pumped. The initial climb was quick and easy, with clear skies above and just a bit of scrambling. The descent that followed was very gentle. The whole first section was roughly 7k with about 450m of elevation gain. We were, as the young kids put it, chilling (and chilly!). Our strategy was simple: run the flats and downhills, and walk the uphill sections.
The next section after the ascent was a 10k stretch to start the next ascent. Things were still pretty good at this point, I felt mostly strong but a bit sluggish from the lack of sleep. We passed by some of our friends who were walking it at this point, we made sure to tell them we were better than them.
As we reached the end of the 10k section, things went downhill for me, metaphorically speaking. I began to experience a pretty horrid cramp in my thighs. This is your PSA to carry electrolytes during such an endeavour. At the 17k mark, where my thighs seized up, we faced decision. The only bail-out point was here, with a train that could take me back to the hut, allowing me to end the run prematurely.
However, the next train wouldn't arrive for another hour, and I hadn't packed enough layers to withstand the exposed area's biting cold. Hypothermia seemed like a real possibility. Determined to push through, Charmaine, a close friend of mine, and I decided to continue together while the rest of the group forged ahead. The remaining 23k of the run proved to be the most grueling experience I had ever endured. The relentless cramps persisted, forcing me to push through the pain with every step.
Whernside
I mostly remember being in agony for most of the ascent. I don't think I've ever walked so slowly in my life. I was walking and stopping, walking and stopping. It was also tough having another person witness my hobbling. I mustered every ounce of strength I had to reach the top. In the end, it took me a few hours to summit, and the face I managed to pull off was a mix of pain and relief.
The descent, on the other hand, was pretty pleasant. My legs still hurt, but it was easier on my body, and I could feel a second wind pick me up, knowing I only had one more peak to go. On the way down, we passed through a little shed where we could restock on supplies. I bought a Lucozade from the vending machine and gulped it down in seconds (which, in hindsight, wasn't the best for my stomach).
Ingleborough
The last summit was surreal and trippy. I had gone through every emotion trying to get through this final stretch. At the start, I laughed as I looked at what was left to climb. I nearly threw up from a stomach ache (thanks to my Lucozade), and I cried as I was climbing. There was a false summit that filled me with anger and frustration, but when I finally reached the top, I was ecstatic, joyful, relieved, overwhelmed by what I had just done.
The ascent involved a bit of scrambling, but nothing technical. However, every step was pure agony. On the run down from Ingleborough, I tripped on a rock (which is quite a common occurrence in my hiking life) and banged my knee. Though getting the chance to sit down for five seconds was a relief. Sadly, the cramps meant that staying stationary for too long made the pain worse.
As I was descending, I could hear the "Final Countdown" playing in my head. Charmaine's words echoed, "Every step gets you closer to the end." It was quite motivating then, though it sounds slightly more ominous now. We eventually got off the trails and ran back on the road. I could see my watch: 38km, 39km. I knew there was just a bit more to go. Eventually, I could see the hut. I walked in, stopped my watch and collapsed on to the cold wooden floor. Victory! I fu*king did it.
Epilogue
Charmaine went on to do a bit more running (!), while my flatmate Jack and Fern continued for another ten kilometers (!!) to make it an ultra. I did none of those. My cramps were still bad, and I had to get out of my sweaty base layers to prevent myself from freezing. Let me tell you, the stretches it took to remove my socks and bottom base layer (because they were sticking to my feet) were brutal. I put on some warm clothes and just crawled into my sleeping bag. Jack came back, and we hugged. He hadn't been convinced I was going to make it. But I did. I ran the Yorkshire Three Peaks.
I ate a mountain load of food, took an electrolyte pill to stop myself from cramping, and called it a night. The cold only intensified that evening. There was a bit of relief when the heating was turned on for a short while. It didn’t last too long, lot of these older huts require coins to turn the heaters on, and energy prices mean heating was never going to be on for too long.
The next day, some of us folks went climbing. I mostly hid in an emergency shelter to prevent the cold and rain from killing me. I did not climb anything in the end.
The end
So you might be asking? Should I run/walk the Y3P? The answer is….probably.
Despite the fact that some of this account may paint the experience as one filled with pain and hardship, I can't help but reflect on it as one of the most beautifully surreal days of my life. The sun shone down on us, illuminating the breathtaking trails that wound through the stunning landscape. Even in moments of absolute disarray, I felt a profound sense of being truly alive. There's something about embarking on a challenge like this that forces you to stay present, to exist solely in the moment. When you're focused on putting one foot in front of the other, life's trivial worries and concerns about the future melt away. The past and future slip from your grasp, leaving you with nothing but the steady rhythm of your feet against the ground, propelling you forward. So, if you're considering taking on the highs and lows of this mad, made-up challenge, perhaps consider training (or don't - none of us on the run did). But whatever you do, make sure to pack those essential electrolytes, a hearty supply of food, and a map to guide you through the wild and wonderful adventure that awaits.
Absolute legend G
Beautifully written!! Also a core memory of mine ❤️🔥